I spent five days in mid-September in beautiful Matera, Italy, which left a lasting impression. It is a stunning city that is incredible to explore. It’s not as busy as other Italian destinations, so you can find places to relax and take in the scene before you. Materi is most recognizable from the Sassi, the city’s ancient and historic area.

The Sassi are stone structures amongst the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. Matera is considered one of the oldest cities in the world, dating back to 10,000 BC. It’s incredible to think that these structures have remained for this long, and walking around the Sassi, you can only wonder how a place like this was initially built with the engineering and construction methods of the time. There are probably not many other places on Earth where you will experience something like Matera’s Sassi.

Getting to Matera

Matera has a train station, and many buses arrive and depart from the city daily. The easiest route from a major airport is a bus from Bari International Airport. It’s only one hour away on a direct route and costs €5-10. Flying into Bari is relatively easy within Europe, with many places offering direct flights, and Bari is a small airport that is easy to navigate. You will get on the bus outside the airport arrivals terminal. There are a few places in Matera where buses will drop you off and pick you up depending on which company you choose to purchase your tickets, so take note of where that arrival point is, as it could be a longer walk to where you plan to stay. My stop was about a 15-minute walk from where I was staying, and the bus from Matera back to Bari Airport was 35 minutes from my Airbnb.

Where to Stay

The most recognizable landmark of the Sassi of Matera is the Cathedral and its accompanying tower. My Airbnb was steps from the Cathedral, which was very convenient. I’d recommend staying in the Sassi for a few reasons. Firstly, if you will be spending most of your time here, it’s nice to retreat to your place for some rest and to get out of the heat. Secondly, the sunrise and sunset are amazing here. Many areas in the Sassi have stunning views, and it is easy to find one to enjoy the rising or setting sun. Go to the market and buy various meats, cheeses, and crackers, and enjoy a charcuterie board and a beer, or share a bottle of wine with a fantastic and unforgettable view, all conveniently close to where you stay.

The photograph below is taken just steps from my Airbnb—a 20-second walk.

The Sassi of Matera at night. — 13 sec. at f/11, ISO 100 23mm

How Many Days Do You Need?

I’d say 3-4 days is sufficient for a good Matera experience. You would probably see much of it in one day, and many people do. Matera is a popular day trip, with people coming in and leaving a few hours later. However, they are missing out on the experience and taking the time to enjoy Matera at a slower pace. In my opinion, Matera is a city that should be savoured at a slower pace. The view of Matera at night and its beauty when the sun goes down cannot be missed. Also, if you plan to hike to the caves, you should dedicate at least half a day to that, maybe even a whole day.

Navigating the Sassi

Matera may seem ancient, as the Sassi is the most recognizable and promoted area of Matera and sometimes the only impression people have. However, Matera is a modern city connected to the Sassi area. It’s as close as a flight of stairs, taking you from contemporary to ancient Matera. With the Sassi being the biggest draw, people will spend most of their time here. That includes exploring, dining, and perhaps staying.

Navigating using points of interest is probably the best way to get around the Sassi. Looking at photos of the Sassi, you may assume it’s complicated. It isn’t as easy as reading street signs or using Google Maps; however, I was surprised at how quickly you familiarize yourself with the area and can get around. There were many times when I would walk for 10-15 minutes and look back and be surprised how far I had travelled.

After a day or two, it’s pretty easy to navigate using visual references from the main areas. A few places are more populated with restaurants, shops, and, surprisingly, vehicles. When it rains, the cars slip, squeak, and sometimes fight for grip on the slippery stone surfaces.

Tips for Capturing Photos and Video

If you travel to Matera to capture great photos with something other than your phone, here are a few things I suggest.

Recommended Gear

Weight is a significant factor when travelling and is even more critical in Matera. Big, heavy lenses and camera bodies will quickly contribute to fatigue here. A small prime lens will do wonders as they are often compact and light. I used the 23mm mostly, switching to the 35mm a few times. If you have something around that range, it will suit 85% of what you will capture. The Sassi is sometimes tight; you’ll want something wide to capture the surrounding structures, environment, and panoramic views.

I’d also recommend bringing a polarizer for your lens. This will depend on your preference, but experimenting with the look is easy since a polarizer weighs nothing and doesn’t take up space. Try some captures with and without the polarizer.

Also, if you have a drone, bring it. This is my biggest regret for gear I did not bring. I saw a few drones in the air, and I couldn’t help but think that the footage they were capturing was probably amazing. The Sassi is such a large, open area. It has minimal trees and no high power lines, and with the fantastic sunsets, it’s perfect for a drone. You could take off in many areas without distractions from anyone while keeping a visual reference of your drone if desired. There are so many places to go and pathways to take that you could be there for a while without someone else walking by—a perfect drone environment.

Also, I’d recommend a small travel tripod. These can be inexpensive, don’t weigh much, and are very useful when you want extended exposure in low light and not handheld at a high ISO setting, which will add noise. As always, use your camera timer to avoid the shake during a long exposure. The two-second timer should be enough to prevent movement from pressing the button.

Interesting Subjects

The Sassi and various piazzas in Matera have interesting buildings, textures, and layouts that cast excellent shadows. Mid-day shooting can be difficult but is doable. Be sure to capture the details to create a complete story of your travels. There are old doors, flowers, plants, cats, dogs, windows, etc. Some of these can be overlooked as you take everything in on the grand scale, but capturing what complements your environment and story is essential.

There is a market in Matera, the Mercato Storico di Matera Central, a few steps from the Piazza Vittorio Veneto. This market is not in the Sassi. It’s not a huge market, but sometimes a good number of people go shopping there. It’s a good place for some detail and establishing shots.

Helpful Notes

Tap water is safe to drink. For those who buy bottled water, it is available everywhere for about €1. If you arrive here in the warmer months, drink lots of it. Dehydration is no joke and can creep up on you. You will exert yourself in the Sassi.
Matera is very safe, especially in the Sassi. I had no issue walking around at night and felt completely secure. However, use common sense and proper precautions.
If it rains or has recently rained, be very careful walking. The ancient Sassi was built long ago, and many stone surfaces are now smooth from thousands of years of use. There are many stairs, some steeper than others, and they can be slippery. If you see railings to hang onto, do it. They are there for a reason.
Bring comfortable shoes with excellent traction. Flip-flops or sandals are not a great choice based on the slippery surfaces and inclines you will climb.
Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere, but I found having cash helpful.
English is spoken in Matera but not as widely as in Rome or Florence. Knowing a few essential Italian words and phrases to complete a transaction is helpful and appreciated.

Find a good coffee shop and have an espresso or cappuccino at the bar. Having your morning caffeine at a table or the standing bar is customary in Italy. If you order an espresso, you’ll be given a small glass of water to clean your palette before enjoying the espresso. I enjoyed Gran Caffe in Piazza Vittorio Veneto because of its coffee and atmosphere.
When using your camera, I’d recommend always using a wrist strap. It adds a bit of security and assures that if it slipped out of your hand, the camera shouldn’t slam down on the stones. You’ll want to concentrate on where you are walking all the time.

Conclusion

Matera, particularly the Sassi, is a remarkable place and one of the most unique places I have ever visited. Visiting Matera is physically demanding; depending on the weather, it can be even more so. You can see a lot of Matera in a day, but it is recommended that you spend 3-4 days there to enjoy some of the evening pastimes and fabulous views.

Matera, Italy: What to Expect and How to Enjoy